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This magnificent uchikake represents the pinnacle of 1930s Japanese ceremonial textile artistry, featuring a spectacular phoenix (hō-ō) composition that embodies both traditional symbolism and the sophisticated aesthetic sensibilities of the Showa period. The mythical bird dominates the garment with its magnificent plumage rendered in brilliant gradations of teal, gold, and coral, its serpentine form creating dynamic movement across the black silk ground as flames of golden fire emanate from its body in stylized, almost Art Deco-influenced patterns. The phoenix's elaborate tail feathers cascade downward in flowing curves that demonstrate the masterful yuzen painter's ability to capture both the creature's supernatural power and ethereal beauty, while delicate peacock-eye motifs within the plumage add layers of symbolic meaning related to wisdom and protection.
The supporting botanical elements - paulownia (kiri) blossoms in soft pink tones and lush peonies (botan) - create a harmonious composition that speaks to the garment's use as bridal wear, as these flowers traditionally symbolize honor, wealth, and marital happiness. The artistic execution reflects the influence of both traditional Rinpa school decorative painting and emerging modernist aesthetics of the 1930s, particularly in the bold use of negative space and the slightly abstracted treatment of the rock formations and foliage that anchor the composition. The phoenix itself, as the legendary queen of birds and symbol of virtue, renewal, and the feminine principle, makes this uchikake a powerful ceremonial garment that would have represented the highest aspirations for the bride's future happiness and prosperity.
It measures 49 inches (124 cm) across the sleeves and stands at 61 inches (155 cm) in height.
This artwork is featured on page 215 of Art Kimono: Aesthetic Revelations of Japan, 1905-1960. This book, published by Yorke Antique Textiles, can be previewed or purchased on our website here. This textile is also illustrated on page 324-327 of our other book, Ceremonial Textiles of Japan, 18th to 20th Centuries, which can be found here
This uchikakeis also featured on page 136 of the January-February 2018 edition of Arts of Asia.