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This exquisite Edo period uchikake embodies the Taoist vision of Mount Horai (Hōrai-san) through its masterful arrangement of auspicious symbols. The garment's composition creates a paradisiacal landscape that transitions from the turbulent earthly realm depicted in the stylized waves at the hem to the serene celestial sphere of the upper sections, rendered in deep indigo that evokes the infinite expanse of heaven. This vertical narrative structure reflects classical Japanese painting traditions while incorporating the Taoist cosmological concept of Mount Horai as an immortal paradise floating in the Eastern Sea.
The symbolic program is extraordinarily rich in meaning appropriate for bridal attire, featuring the minogame turtle with its flowing tail of seaweed-like appendages, which represents longevity of ten thousand years and marital fidelity. The cranes (tsuru) soaring through the composition symbolize a thousand years of happiness and devotion, while the combination of pine (matsu), bamboo (take), and plum (ume) forms the auspicious shōchikubai trio representing steadfastness, flexibility, and perseverance respectively - essential virtues for a successful marriage. The technical execution demonstrates extraordinary skill, with the delicate embroidery work using silk and metallic threads creating dimensional effects that bring each element to vivid life against the lustrous silk ground.
The detail images reveal the sophisticated interplay of techniques, from the elaborate gold couching that defines the turtle's shell in concentric spirals suggesting cosmic energy, to the precise directional stitching that captures the naturalistic movement of crane feathers and the rhythmic flow of stylized waves. This uchikake exemplifies the peak of Edo period luxury textile production, when court traditions merged with emerging merchant class aesthetics to create garments that functioned as wearable prayers for prosperity, longevity, and spiritual transcendence - transforming the bride into a living embodiment of paradise itself on her wedding day.
It measures 51 inches (130 cm) across the shoulders and stands at 59 inches (150 cm) in height.
This artwork is featured on pages 358-359 of Ceremonial Textiles of Japan, 18th to 20th Centuries. This book, published by Yorke Antique Textiles, can be previewed or purchased on our website here.