An extraordinary and exceptionally rare ceremonial kimono. This tall silk garment demonstrates an unprecedented level of craftsmanship and spiritual symbolism that places it among the most remarkable examples of Japanese ceremonial dress.

The complete kimono follows the formal structure of a kurotomesode with its black ground and concentrated pattern work in the lower portion, but diverges dramatically in its unique checkerboard design containing approximately 300 squares with 150 individually hand-painted yuzen motifs. The five mon (family crests) feature the distinctive myouga (Japanese ginger) sprouts enclosed in circles, symbolizing longevity and associated with the Tendai Buddhist deity Matara. The meticulous execution is evident in how each of the seven different motif types appears roughly twenty times throughout the checkerboard, yet each individual rendering varies in subtle but discernible ways, demonstrating the extraordinary patience and skill of the craftspeople who must have worked for months to complete this commission.

The detail view reveals the profound spiritual significance embedded within this textile masterpiece. The large red script represents a stylized bonji character - Sanskrit letters introduced to Japan with Esoteric Buddhism over 1200 years ago. This particular bonji symbolizes Fudō Myō-ō (Acala), the Immovable Wisdom King who guards Shingon Buddhism and serves as a primary force against evil. The surrounding motifs include the Buddhist Sacred Wheel, originally an ancient Indian weapon that became a symbol of Buddhist law and the destruction of mental obstacles, and an eight-pointed star motif associated with Ursa Major worship and the protective deity Myoken. Even the white dividing lines of the checkerboard are revealed to be complex narrow drawings rather than simple linear elements, further emphasizing the extraordinary attention to detail throughout this piece.

This kimono likely served a highly specific ceremonial function, possibly worn during the Goma Fire Ritual where Fudō Myō-ō is the principal deity invoked. The rarity and uniqueness of this design, combined with its profound Buddhist symbolism and extraordinary craftsmanship, suggests it was created for someone of exceptional religious standing or for a ceremony of unusual importance within Japan's Esoteric Buddhist traditions.

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 (Thanks to Mark Schumacher of Onmark Productions for pointing out the bonji translation as "Fudo"). 50"/127cm from sleeve-end to sleeve-end x 64"/163cm height.

This artwork is featured on pages 380-383 of Ceremonial Textiles of Japan, 18th to 20th Centuries. This book, published by Yorke Antique Textiles, can be previewed or purchased on our website here.

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