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This extraordinary kinsha silk summer kimono represents a masterpiece of Japanese textile artistry, demonstrating the sophisticated interplay between multiple decorative techniques and the profound symbolism of the carp motif. The garment's ethereal quality emerges from its layered approach to depicting carp swimming through water, created through a carefully orchestrated combination of yuzen dyeing, embroidery, and the innovative use of rinzu damask weaving. The base fabric itself becomes part of the artistic narrative, with plain crepe areas representing flowing water contrasting against abstract ribbed textures that suggest the movement and depth of an aquatic environment.
The carp, or koi, holds deep significance in Japanese culture as a symbol of perseverance, strength, and transformation, derived from the legend of koi swimming upstream to become dragons. The artistic treatment of these seventeen prominent dark carp through yuzen dyeing showcases the technique's capacity for creating naturalistic detail, with each fish rendered with meticulous attention to scales, fins, and anatomical accuracy. The graduated approach to the fish representation—from the barely visible white embroidered carp in the distance to the silver metallic thread specimens in the middle ground, culminating in the bold yuzen-painted foreground fish—creates a remarkable sense of depth and atmospheric perspective that echoes the spatial innovations found in Western Impressionist painting of the same era.
The employment of the "fuzzy effect" embroidery technique for the white and silver carp demonstrates the highest level of craftsmanship, where parallel stitches deliberately avoid touching to allow glimpses of the underlying fabric, creating a subtle, almost ghostly presence that enhances the sense of fish moving through water. This technical approach reflects the Japanese aesthetic principle of ma, or meaningful emptiness, where what is not shown becomes as important as what is depicted. The overall composition evokes the influence of naturalist movements in art while maintaining distinctly Japanese sensibilities about the harmony between technique, symbolism, and seasonal appropriateness, making this summer kimono not merely a garment but a wearable meditation on the cycles of nature and the persistence of life.
It measures 50 inches (127 cm) from sleeve-end to sleeve-end and stands at 57 inches (145 cm) in height.
This artwork is featured on page 211 of Art Kimono: Aesthetic Revelations of Japan, 1905-1960. This book, published by Yorke Antique Textiles, can be previewed or purchased on our website here.
The piece is also featured on page 139 of the July-August 2017 edition of Arts of Asia.