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This chirimen silk kurofurisode exemplifies the refined aesthetic of early 20th century bridal attire, showcasing a masterful integration of traditional Japanese motifs with the era's evolving decorative sensibilities. The black ground creates a dramatic nocturnal canvas that allows the luminous floral arrangements to emerge with theatrical intensity, reflecting the period's fascination with bold contrasts and sophisticated color harmonies. The composition demonstrates the classic Japanese principle of asymmetrical balance, with lush bouquets of peonies, delicate spring orchids, and graceful nightingales strategically placed to create visual rhythm across the garment's surface while leaving generous areas of pristine silk that speak to the aesthetic concept of ma, or meaningful emptiness.
The artistic execution reveals the technical mastery of yuzen painting enhanced by silk embroidery and metallic thread work, creating a multi-layered surface that shifts between painterly illusion and tactile reality. The peacock feathers, rendered with meticulous attention to their iridescent "eyes," demonstrate the period's interest in incorporating more exotic motifs alongside traditional Japanese flora and fauna, possibly reflecting the cultural exchange of the Meiji Restoration's legacy.
Symbolically, this kurofurisode operates as a complex visual poem celebrating fertility, beauty, and auspicious beginnings. The peonies, known as the "king of flowers," represent honor, wealth, and feminine beauty, while the spring orchids symbolize refinement and moral integrity. The nightingales herald the arrival of spring and new beginnings, making them particularly appropriate for bridal wear. The peacock feathers, with their distinctive ocellated patterns, traditionally represent watchfulness and nobility, while their exotic nature adds an element of worldly sophistication. Together, these motifs create a symbolic narrative of a bride's journey into married life, blessed with beauty, protected by vigilance, and graced with the promise of renewal and prosperity.
Adorned with five mon, it measures 51 inches (130 cm) from sleeve-end to sleeve-end and stands at 63 inches (160 cm) in height.
This artwork is featured on page 106 of Art Kimono: Aesthetic Revelations of Japan, 1905-1960. This book, published by Yorke Antique Textiles, can be previewed or purchased on our website here.