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The kimono's design follows a sophisticated symbolic framework dividing the composition between heaven and earth. The upper portion features a brilliant blue sky dotted with stylized white clouds, while the lower section transitions to soft greens representing the earthly realm. This celestial-terrestrial division is a classical motif in Japanese decorative arts.
The artwork is populated with traditional Japanese musical instruments and auspicious creatures rendered in exquisite detail. Flying through the clouded sky are phoenixes with elaborate tail plumage in gold and orange tones, their wings spread in graceful flight. Below, a colorful pheasant (kiji) appears among the earthly elements, its plumage depicted with careful attention to natural coloring.
The musical instruments scattered throughout the composition include various traditional forms: hand drums (tsuzumi) with their characteristic hourglass shape and decorative cords, wind instruments (shou), and other ceremonial musical objects. These instruments are rendered with gold highlights and intricate patterning that demonstrates the textile artist's technical mastery.
The base fabric features a subtle damask pattern of large decorative fans (hiogi) woven into the silk itself, creating a rich textural foundation for the painted and embroidered elements layered above. The artistic techniques employed include yuzen painting for the detailed motifs, bokashi shading for subtle color gradations, gold couching for metallic accents, and delicate embroidery highlights.
The overall composition demonstrates not only exceptional craftsmanship but also deep cultural knowledge of Japanese symbolism, making this a remarkable example of formal ceremonial dress that would have required considerable expense and artistic expertise to create.
Measurements: 48 inches (122 cm) from sleeve-end to sleeve-end by 63 inches (160 cm) height
This artwork is featured on pages 392-393 of Ceremonial Textiles of Japan, 18th to 20th Centuries. This book, published by Yorke Antique Textiles, can be previewed or purchased on our website here.