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This meisen silk haori features stylized representations of genjiko, or incense containers used in kōdō (the Japanese art of appreciating incense), scattered across a deep black background. The genjiko motifs are rendered as abstract, geometric shapes—rectangular forms in vibrant shades of yellow-gold and rusty orange-red. These bold colors create a dramatic contrast against the black ground, giving the garment a powerful visual impact. The shapes appear to be floating or tumbling across the fabric, imparting a sense of movement and dynamism to the design. Each genjiko motif is detailed with red silk combined with gold metallic supplementary weft highlights, adding depth and dimension to the design.
The bold, geometric shapes scattered across a dark background evoke elements of Abstract Expressionism, particularly in their seemingly random arrangement and dynamic composition. The overall pattern and repetition of forms also suggest influences from the Op Art movement, creating a sense of visual rhythm and movement across the fabric. The stylized, almost industrial-looking genjiko with their internal linear patterns hint at Constructivist or Bauhaus design principles, emphasizing geometric abstraction and the interplay of form and color. The vibrant color palette and graphic quality of the design also share similarities with Pop Art aesthetics, employing bold, eye-catching elements typical of that movement.
Dimensions: 50inches (127 cm) from sleeve-end to sleeve-end and 37 inches (94 cm) in height
This artwork is featured on page 242 of Art Kimono: Aesthetic Revelations of Japan, 1905-1960. This book, published by Yorke Antique Textiles, can be previewed or purchased on our website here.