This tsumugi silk summer kimono presents a masterful interpretation of a classic Japanese nature scene, featuring soaring geese against a dramatic storm-cloud backdrop. The artistic execution demonstrates exceptional skill in combining multiple traditional Japanese techniques to create a cohesive and atmospheric composition.

The design shows clear influence from the shin-hanga (new prints) movement and the naturalistic bird-and-flower (kacho-ga) tradition that flourished during this period. An attribution to Ohara Koson is particularly compelling, as the treatment of the geese - with their carefully observed anatomical details and dynamic flight poses - strongly echoes his distinctive approach to avian subjects. Koson was renowned for his ability to capture birds in motion with both scientific accuracy and poetic sensibility, qualities evident in this textile interpretation.

The technical execution is remarkably sophisticated, employing tsutsugaki (resist dyeing through a tube) for the geese, which allows for the precise control needed to render their feather details and wing structures. The sumi-e (ink painting) outlining adds definition and movement, while the delicate grasses are rendered purely in sumi-e technique, creating subtle linear elements that suggest wind and atmospheric conditions.

The storm clouds demonstrate masterful pigment dye brushing, creating the soft, voluminous effects that give the sky its dramatic presence. The gradated blues and grays, from deep storm tones to lighter atmospheric passages, show the influence of Western atmospheric perspective while maintaining distinctly Japanese aesthetic sensibilities.

This piece exemplifies the artistic cross-pollination occurring in early 20th-century Japan, where traditional textile techniques were being used to interpret designs by leading contemporary artists. The result bridges fine art and decorative art, creating a wearable masterpiece that captures both the technical virtuosity of Japanese textile arts and the aesthetic innovations of the modern Japanese art movement.

Measuring 59 inches (150 cm) across the shoulders and 58 inches (147 cm) in height, it underwent alterations, likely in the 1930s or 40s, shortening the sleeves and adding white cotton patches in the seating area and neck. The original longer sleeves have been revealed by removing the alterations. Tsumugi, woven from leftover silkworm cocoon floss, feels akin to high-quality handmade linen and is highly esteemed in Japan despite its modest origin. Its slubs result from silk spinning, initially stiff due to starch but softening with wear and washing. The tsumugi creation involves collecting broken silk threads, degumming, spinning with sesame oil, dyeing, and weaving.

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This artwork is featured on page 96 of Art Kimono: Aesthetic Revelations of Japan, 1905-1960. This book, published by Yorke Antique Textiles, can be previewed or purchased on our website here.

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