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This kurotomesode features a magnificent phoenix design that embodies both artistic sophistication and profound cultural symbolism. The garment demonstrates the masterful application of yuzen resist dyeing technique, which allows for the creation of painterly effects with crisp, controlled color boundaries that give the floral and avian motifs their remarkable clarity and vibrancy against the formal black silk ground.
The phoenix, or ho-oh in Japanese tradition, dominates the composition as a symbol of imperial grace, renewal, and the harmony between yin and yang forces. In Japanese mythology, the phoenix appears only during times of peace and prosperity, making it an especially auspicious motif for formal occasions. The bird is rendered with extraordinary detail, its flowing plumage captured through a combination of yuzen dyeing and delicate embroidery work that creates both flat color areas and subtle dimensional effects. The creature appears to emerge from and merge with an abundant garden of seasonal flowers, including peonies, chrysanthemums, and other blooms that represent wealth, longevity, and noble character.
The artistic treatment reflects influences from both classical Rinpa school aesthetics, with its bold compositional arrangements and stylized natural forms, and the more naturalistic tendencies that gained popularity during the Meiji and Taisho periods. The use of metallic-thread couching adds luminous highlights that catch and reflect light, creating a sense of movement and vitality that brings the mythical creature to life. The sophisticated color palette of coral, cream, gold, and muted greens against the deep black ground creates a dramatic contrast that emphasizes the formal nature of this garment, which would have been worn by married women at the most ceremonial occasions, representing both personal refinement and family status.
It measures 51 inches (130 cm) from sleeve-end to sleeve-end, with a height of 67 inches (170 cm).