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This chirimen silk underkimono (juban) bold geometric pattern of alternating black and cream stripes, punctuated by intricate crosshatched sections, demonstrates a striking departure from classical Japanese motifs toward a more modernist aesthetic that would later influence Art Deco and Bauhaus movements. This shift reflects the broader cultural transformation occurring during Japan's rapid modernization, when artisans began experimenting with Western industrial techniques while maintaining their mastery of traditional silk production.
The printed decoration technique employed here marks a significant technological advancement from traditional resist-dyeing methods, allowing for precise geometric patterns and consistent reproduction that would have been difficult to achieve through hand-dyeing processes. The alternating bands create a rhythmic visual effect that suggests both textile patterns and architectural elements, perhaps reflecting the period's fascination with industrial aesthetics and mechanical precision. The crosshatched sections reveal the sophisticated printing capabilities of the era, with fine linear details that create textural variety within the overall geometric framework, demonstrating how Japanese textile producers were adapting foreign technologies to create distinctly Japanese interpretations of modern design.
As an underkimono, this garment would have been worn beneath the outer kimono, making its bold pattern a private luxury—a concept that speaks to the Japanese appreciation for hidden beauty and personal refinement. The choice to apply such a striking, almost avant-garde design to an undergarment suggests both the wearer's sophisticated taste and the period's experimental spirit, where traditional concepts of appropriate decoration were being challenged and redefined. The chirimen silk's characteristic crepe texture would have provided both comfort and subtle visual interest, enhancing the printed pattern's impact through the interplay of light and shadow across the fabric's surface.
Several tiny inconspicuous holes. It's worth noting that the removable lapel appears newer compared to the main garment; traditionally, these lapels were frequently replaced as they tended to get stained first. Measuring 49 inches (124 cm) from sleeve-end to sleeve-end, this underkimono stands at a height of 50 inches (127 cm).