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This dounuki represents the sophisticated artistry of Japanese undergarments, demonstrating that even hidden layers of dress received meticulous attention to decorative detail and technical excellence. The garment showcases a masterful combination of textile techniques, with the upper bodice section featuring delicate shibori tie-dyeing that creates organic, cloud-like patterns in soft blue-green tones against the rich burgundy silk ground. These abstract forms are punctuated by precise geometric elements—small diamond shapes that appear to be created through resist-dyeing methods, creating a striking contrast between the fluid, naturalistic shibori work and the controlled geometry of the smaller motifs.
The lower sections and sleeves display sarasa-style chirimen silk, a crinkled silk fabric decorated with densely packed floral patterns that reflect the Japanese interpretation of Indian chintz designs that became popular during the Edo period. The detailed view reveals the intricate complexity of this patterning, with stylized flowers and foliage rendered in multiple colors against the dark ground, demonstrating the period's fascination with exotic textile traditions filtered through Japanese aesthetic sensibilities. As an undergarment, this dounuki would have provided both warmth and an additional layer of luxury that, while largely unseen, contributed to the wearer's sense of completeness and refinement. The combination of shibori's spontaneous, nature-inspired effects with the controlled repetition of sarasa patterns creates a sophisticated dialogue between chance and design, embodying the Meiji era's ability to synthesize traditional Japanese techniques with influences from broader Asian textile traditions. This garment exemplifies the Japanese principle that beauty should exist at every level of experience, even in elements hidden from public view.
There are silk splits along the shoulder area and a tear on the front. It measures 48 inches (122 cm) from sleeve-end to sleeve-end and stands at 56 inches (142 cm) in height.