This dounuki, a specialized silk under-kimono, juxtaposes two distinct decorative approaches, creating a striking interplay between structured formality and painterly dynamism. The main body is patterned with bold diagonal bands in vivid turquoise, soft green, and deep burgundy achieved through shibori (tie-dye) techniques, their feathered edges producing irregular striations that suggest movement and spontaneity. These diagonal stripes contrast sharply with the rich brown ground, which carries hand-stenciled floral roundels—motifs rendered in repeat, evoking the restrained order of traditional katazome design.

The design reflects the late-Meiji fascination with combining conservative and experimental aesthetics within a single garment. While the repeated stenciled mon-like rosettes project continuity with classical Japanese textile traditions, the broad swaths of color and blurred, resist-dyed textures display the influence of both Japanese decorative innovation and a subtle awareness of global textile trends, particularly the expressive abstraction that would later resonate with Western modernist sensibilities. The asymmetry and bold diagonals recall Rinpa-inspired compositional rhythms, while the layered visual textures anticipate the experimental flair of early Taishō-era fashion.

Symbolically, the repeating circular motifs suggest continuity, prosperity, and cultural refinement—appropriate for a formal layer in ceremonial wear—while the irregular shibori stripes introduce a sense of freedom and vitality, qualities admired in late-Meiji design culture as symbols of progress and individuality. The combination of these two contrasting surfaces on a single dounuki demonstrates the adaptability of Japanese artisans to a shifting cultural climate that valued both tradition and innovation at the dawn of modernity.

The inner upper lining (doura) showcases natural, undyed hand-spun and woven silk. Measuring approximately 49 inches (124 cm) from sleeve-end to sleeve-end, this under-kimono stands at a height of about 59 inches(150 cm).

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