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This rinzu silk kimono possesses a vibrant coral-red ground, providing a dramatic canvas for the oversized black peony motifs, creating a color combination that evokes both traditional Japanese lacquerware and the emerging modernist color theories that were influencing design worldwide. The scale and placement of the floral elements show clear influence from Art Deco principles, with their emphasis on bold, graphic forms that command attention across the garment's surface.
The technical execution demonstrates the sophisticated capabilities of rinzu weaving, where the damask technique creates subtle textural variations within the monochromatic black flowers while maintaining crisp definition against the vibrant ground. The artist's use of a feathered, almost brushstroke-like edge treatment around each peony creates a sense of movement and spontaneity that bridges traditional Japanese ink painting techniques with textile design. This stylistic choice transforms what could have been static decorative elements into dynamic forms that seem to pulse with life against the luminous red silk.
The mysterious black peonies themselves represent a fascinating intersection of legend, symbolism, and artistic innovation. While peonies traditionally appear in pink, white, or deep crimson in Japanese art, the deliberate choice of black transforms these symbols of honor, wealth, and feminine beauty into something more enigmatic and powerful. The folkloric connections to tales of sacrifice and transformation add layers of meaning that elevate this garment beyond mere decoration into a meditation on beauty, rarity, and the transformative power of artistic vision.
It measures 57 inches (145 cm) from sleeve-end to sleeve-end and stands at a height of 59 inches (150 cm).
This artwork is featured on page 53 of Art Kimono: Aesthetic Revelations of Japan, 1905-1960. This book, published by Yorke Antique Textiles, can be previewed or purchased on our website here.
and Arts of Asia, Spring 2022, p97