This striking omeshi kimono features a dramatic geometric composition built around cross or plus-sign motifs that appear to float against a deep black background. The crosses are rendered in vibrant turquoise and bright magenta-pink, creating a powerful color contrast that immediately draws the eye. The design employs a faux-ikat technique, where the blurred, slightly irregular edges of the motifs mimic the characteristic softness of traditional ikat weaving while being achieved through different means.

What makes this design particularly sophisticated is the seemingly random yet carefully orchestrated placement of the crosses across the textile surface. They vary in size and appear at different intervals, creating a dynamic rhythm that prevents the pattern from becoming monotonous. Some crosses are complete while others are partially visible at the edges, suggesting a continuation of the pattern beyond the garment's boundaries.

The second image reveals the remarkable technical achievement of the omeshi weaving process. The close-up shows how the colors appear to bleed and blend into each other, creating those characteristic ikat-like fuzzy edges. The incorporation of silver metallic thread warp inserts adds subtle highlights that would catch and reflect light as the wearer moved, creating an additional layer of visual interest.

The vertical striping visible in the detail shows the complexity of the weaving structure, with different colored warps creating the foundation for this intricate pattern. The texture appears rich and substantial, typical of omeshi silk's distinctive crepe-like surface.

This kimono exemplifies the period's fascination with Western modernist design principles - particularly the influence of Art Deco and constructivist aesthetics - while maintaining the traditional Japanese garment form. The bold geometric abstraction and electric color palette would have been considered quite avant-garde for its time, representing the wearer's sophisticated, cosmopolitan taste and willingness to embrace contemporary design trends.

The red inner doura is hand-spun and woven, while the orange hakkama (lower inner) is made of kinsha (fine crepe) silk. Measuring 50 inches (127 cm) from sleeve-end to sleeve-end, it stands at a height of 62 inches (157 cm).

This artwork is featured on page 348 of Art Kimono: Aesthetic Revelations of Japan, 1905-1960. This book, published by Yorke Antique Textiles, can be previewed or purchased on our website here.

This kimono is also featured on page 95 of the Spring 2022 edition of Arts of Asia.

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