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This is a spectacular example of a silk kimono that demonstrates the sophisticated Majolica omeshi weaving technique applied to create a dramatic mountain landscape design. The garment presents an all-over pattern that completely covers the fabric surface, creating a rich tapestry of natural scenery.
The design depicts a mountainous landscape rendered in a bold color palette dominated by deep reds, rich golds, and muted greens with black accents. The composition shows rolling mountain ranges with their characteristic angular, layered silhouettes that create a sense of depth and geological stratification. These mountains are interspersed with cascading waterfalls, which are masterfully woven using metallic gold threads that would have shimmered and caught light beautifully when worn.
The Majolica omeshi weaving technique is particularly well-suited to this complex pictorial design. Omeshi is a type of silk crepe weaving that allows for intricate patterning through the manipulation of warp and weft threads, creating subtle textural variations across the fabric surface. This technique enables the weaver to achieve the fine detail visible in the landscape elements while maintaining the structural integrity of the textile.
The detail images reveal the extraordinary technical precision of the weaving. You can see how individual threads are carefully controlled to create the various elements of the landscape - from the flowing lines of the waterfalls rendered in metallic gold to the complex color gradations that suggest rocky terrain and vegetation. The weaving achieves an almost painterly quality, with areas of dense color punctuated by lighter passages that suggest atmospheric perspective.
The waterfalls are particularly striking features, appearing as golden streams that flow down through the mountainous terrain. The use of metallic gold threads for these water elements not only creates visual emphasis but also adds a luxurious quality to the garment, as the gold would have created movement and light reflection as the wearer moved.
The measurements are approximately 52 inches from sleeve-end to sleeve-end and 62 inches in height, or about 132 centimeters by 157 centimeters.
This artwork is featured on page 23 of Art Kimono: Aesthetic Revelations of Japan, 1905-1960. This book, published by Yorke Antique Textiles, can be previewed or purchased on our website here.
The piece is also featured on page 44 of the July-August 2019 edition of Arts of Asia.