This rinzu (damask) chirimen (crepe) silk kimono presents a masterful synthesis of traditional Japanese textile techniques with the emerging modernist aesthetic of the early 20th century. The garment features large-scale stenciled leaves in rich purple and vibrant green against a warm golden-beige ground, creating a bold botanical pattern that flows gracefully across the fabric surface.

The design demonstrates a sophisticated understanding of scale and movement, with the oversized leaves creating dramatic sweeping gestures that seem to dance across the kimono. This approach to botanical motifs reflects the influence of Art Nouveau's emphasis on natural forms, but rendered with a distinctly Japanese sensibility that emphasizes asymmetrical composition and organic flow. The leaves appear to be depicted in a naturalistic style, with careful attention to their linear structure and subtle gradations of color.

The technical achievement here is remarkable - the combination of rinzu damask weaving with chirimen crepe silk creates a complex textural foundation that adds depth and richness to the stenciled design. The detail images reveal how the damask patterning creates subtle tonal variations within the background, visible as lighter areas that catch and reflect light differently. This creates an almost shimmering effect that makes the golden ground appear to glow beneath the bold leaf motifs.

The stenciling technique (kata-yuzen) allows for crisp, clean edges on the leaf forms while maintaining the flowing, organic quality essential to the design. The choice of purple and green - complementary colors - against the warm neutral ground creates a sophisticated color harmony that feels both natural and artistically refined.

This kimono exemplifies the Taisho period's embrace of larger, more dramatic patterns that broke away from the smaller, more intricate designs of earlier eras, reflecting a new confidence in bold artistic expression.

A small light stain on the back sleeve.

Measurements:  around 50 inches (127 cm) from sleeve-end to sleeve-end and 59 inches (150 cm) in height.

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This artwork is featured on page 97 of Art Kimono: Aesthetic Revelations of Japan, 1905-1960.This book, published by Yorke Antique Textiles, can be previewed or purchased on our website here

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