This exquisite wedding robe showcases a masterful interpretation of the legendary Noh play Hagoromo (The Feathered Robe), rendered through multiple sophisticated textile techniques on fine rinzu silk.

The central composition features a magnificent feathered robe, depicted with flowing, elongated tail feathers that cascade dramatically across the garment. The bird appears to be soaring through stylized clouds against a deep, star-studded night sky, creating a sense of otherworldly movement and grace that perfectly captures the ethereal nature of the Hagoromo legend.

The artist has skillfully employed a rich palette of muted earth tones - soft grays, blues, and golden yellows - that complement the natural silk base. The phoenix's plumage is rendered with remarkable detail, showing individual feathers in varying shades that create depth and texture. The flowing tail feathers transition from the dark upper portion of the robe down into the lighter lower section, where they seem to merge with stylized water or mist patterns.

The detailed images reveal the extraordinary craftsmanship in close detail, showing the intricate gold couching work that outlines the feather patterns. Each feather is meticulously defined with golden thread, creating scalloped edges and internal linear details that give incredible dimension to the design. The embroidery work demonstrates the highest level of technical skill, with different colored silk threads creating subtle variations in the bird's plumage - including touches of blue, green, and purple that catch the light.

The overall composition flows seamlessly from the dramatic celestial scene in the upper portion to the more earthbound water motifs below, symbolically representing the connection between the heavenly and terrestrial realms that is central to the Hagoromo story. This wedding robe would have been a treasured garment, representing not just artistic excellence but also the auspicious symbolism of celestial blessings for the bride.

It measures 48 inches (122 cm) along the shoulders and stands at 60 inches (152 cm) in height. The legend of Hagomoro involves a fisherman named Hakuryo who encounters a magical feather-robe, embroidered heavily with gold, hanging on a pine branch near Miho's Matsubara Beach. The fisherman initially keeps the robe but eventually returns it to a female Buddhist immortal, Tenyyo, after she performs a celestial dance wearing the robe. The motifs from this legend on a wedding robe likely connect to the proximity of a Buddhist shrine near Matsubara Beach, known for fostering harmony between married couples viewing spring cherry blossoms. Interestingly, this robe lacks family crests, unlike typical wedding robes. Stage costumes like those used in kabuki also lack family crests but feature thick silk and robust embroidery for distant viewers. The absence of family crests raises questions about this robe's intended purpose, possibly linking it to a Tayuu (elite geisha from Kyoto) robe, but further research is needed. The depicted scene likely captures the moment Hakuryo discovers the magical feather robe near the seashore on a clear, star-filled night.

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This artwork is featured on pages 360-363 of Ceremonial Textiles of Japan, 18th to 20th Centuries. This book, published by Yorke Antique Textiles, can be previewed or purchased on our website here.

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