google-site-verification: google615fe10ab62068fe.html
This furisode features a rich teal satin (shusu) ground, serving as the backdrop for an elaborate design drawn from the Noh play Hagoromo (“The Feather Mantle”), a classical drama rooted in celestial mythology. Central to the composition are three ethereal feathered robes (hagoromo), shown cascading across the garment with graceful, flowing tails that evoke a sense of weightless movement. These robes, believed to grant flight to heavenly maidens, are a defining symbol of the play and are rendered here with exquisite detail using the yuzen resist-dye technique combined with freehand brush painting. The sweeping cords and streaming elements of the robes intermingle with sprays of pale plum blossoms (ume), a seasonal motif signifying renewal, endurance, and good fortune.
Close examination reveals the meticulous use of metallic couching to outline the forms, with gold threads couched in red silk stitches, lending brilliance and textural contrast to the painterly motifs. The shading and tonal gradations in the robes and blossoms show the influence of sumi-e ink painting techniques, blending bold contour lines with atmospheric softness. This synthesis of outlined and shaded effects reflects the decorative refinement of late Edo aesthetics, while the lyrical arrangement of flowing curves and clustered blossoms resonates with Rinpa-style compositions known for their dynamic rhythm and celebration of nature.
The imagery directly references the plot of Hagoromo, in which a celestial maiden descends to Earth and hangs her feathered robe on a pine tree. When a fisherman discovers the robe, she pleads for its return, explaining that without it she cannot ascend back to the heavens. The robe thus embodies themes of transcendence, impermanence, and harmony between the earthly and divine—concepts deeply embedded in Japanese aesthetics. For a furisode, a garment traditionally worn by young, unmarried women on auspicious occasions, this symbolism was especially resonant: it signified purity, grace, and the promise of an elevated, even transformative future, aligning with the ideals of coming-of-age or bridal celebrations.
This combination of theatrical reference, nature motifs, and luxurious technique also illustrates the 19th-century fascination with classical literature and performance arts as sources of high fashion design. The result is a garment that is both a work of visual storytelling and an emblem of cultural sophistication.
The garment features a rinzu (figured silk) inner lining dyed in "beni" (safflower) orange, has a slightly padded hem. It measures about 48 inches (122 cm) across the shoulders and stands at approximately 60 inches (152 cm) in height.
An attached label inside the neck indicates "Tokyo Silk Company...Hollywood," presumably dating back to the early 20th century, suggesting this furisode was likely imported as an antique and resold in the U.S.