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This magnificent uchikake wedding robe presents a sophisticated composition of minogame (long-tailed turtles) against a rich red chirimen silk ground. The twenty-five embroidered turtles are rendered with extraordinary technical precision, their shells depicted in intricate geometric patterns using gold and silver metallic threads in various combinations. The detail images reveal the masterful couching technique, where the turtles appear to swim through stylized water currents created by flowing lines of metallic thread that undulate across the garment's surface. Each turtle's carapace is meticulously worked with a crosshatch pattern that creates texture and dimension, while their elongated tails trail gracefully behind them in sinuous curves that echo the movement of water itself.
The symbolic significance of the minogame in Japanese culture is profound—these mythical creatures represent longevity, wisdom, and marital fidelity, making them supremely appropriate for bridal attire. According to legend, minogame live for ten thousand years and grow trailing seaweed-like tails, symbolizing the couple's wish for an enduring marriage that will flourish over time. The vibrant red background, akahime or "red princess," carries deep cultural meaning as a color reserved for young women of noble birth, representing both the bride's pure passion and her elevated social status. The artistic approach reflects influences from the Rinpa school's naturalistic yet decorative treatment of animal subjects, while the sophisticated use of metallic threads and the garment's overall compositional balance demonstrate the refined aesthetic sensibilities of late Edo period court culture. The comprehensive embroidery extending even to the interior and padded hem speaks to the extraordinary value placed on this ceremonial garment.
48"/122cm from sleeve-end to sleeve-end x 63"/160cm height.
This artwork is featured on pages 374-375 of Ceremonial Textiles of Japan, 18th to 20th Centuries. This book, published by Yorke Antique Textiles, can be previewed or purchased on our website here.
The piece is also featured on page 136 of the July-August 2017 edition of Arts of Asia.