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This silk dounuki (specialized inner kimono) from the late Edo period exemplifies the refined aesthetic sensibilities of layered kimono dressing through its masterful use of katazome resist-dyeing techniques. The garment showcases a sophisticated geometric composition that combines traditional auspicious motifs with bold diagonal patterning, creating a dynamic visual rhythm across the bodice area. The deep indigo blue ground provides a rich canvas for the cream-colored design elements, which feature an intricate lattice of diagonal bands interwoven with stylized paulownia (kiri) motifs—a flower that holds profound significance in Japanese culture as an imperial symbol representing honor, virtue, and the highest rank of nobility.
The katazome technique employed here demonstrates exceptional craftsmanship, with crisp, clean lines defining the geometric framework and delicate floral details rendered with remarkable precision. The paulownia blossoms, with their distinctive three-lobed leaves and clustered flower formations, are rendered in elegant stylization that maintains their recognizable characteristics while harmonizing with the overall geometric scheme. The diagonal lattice pattern creates a sense of movement and dimensionality, while the paulownia motifs serve as prestigious ornamental focal points within each diamond-shaped compartment. This combination of geometric structure with the noble paulownia reflects both aesthetic sophistication and social aspiration, as the kiri crest was associated with the highest levels of court and military aristocracy.
As an inner garment, this dounuki would have been glimpsed only at the collar, sleeves, and hem when worn beneath an outer kimono, making the inclusion of such an elevated imperial motif particularly meaningful—a subtle display of cultural refinement and possibly family status. The plain sections at the shoulders and lower hem demonstrate practical understanding of how the garment would be revealed in wear, concentrating the prestigious paulownia imagery hidden from view.
It remains in good condition overall, with small areas showing silk splitting and tiny repaired sections. This kimono measures 48 inches (122 cm) from sleeve end-to-sleeve end and stands at a height of 53 inches (135 cm).