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As an inner kimono worn beneath the formal outer robe, the dounuki traditionally served both practical and symbolic functions, providing warmth and creating subtle color harmonies that would glimpse through at the sleeves, hem, and neckline of the overlying garment. This particular example demonstrates how even undergarments of the period embraced innovative design approaches that challenged conventional decorative expectations.
The upper portion of the garment features a dramatic checkerboard pattern executed in chocolate brown, olive green, and cream tones, with each square containing either bold geometric motifs - concentric squares and parallel stripes - or remaining as solid color blocks. This systematic geometric arrangement reflects early twentieth-century international design trends, particularly the influence of Art Nouveau's geometric phase and nascent Art Deco sensibilities that were beginning to permeate Japanese decorative arts. The crisp definition and rhythmic repetition of these patterns suggest influence from Western textile design principles while maintaining the technical excellence of traditional Japanese silk weaving.
The lower section transitions to a rich golden-brown ground decorated with an intricate small-scale pattern, creating textural depth and visual interest. This bipartite design strategy - combining bold geometric elements with more traditional pattern work - exemplifies the experimental spirit of Meiji and early Taisho period textile design, where artisans freely explored new aesthetic possibilities while respecting established technical traditions. The sophisticated color palette of earth tones unified by the golden-brown base demonstrates refined taste that would complement rather than compete with the outer kimono, fulfilling the dounuki's essential role as elegant foundation garment while asserting its own distinctive artistic character.
It measures 48 inches (122 cm) from sleeve-end to sleeve-end and stands at 57 inches (145 cm) in height.