The fine silk dounuki, worn as an under-kimono beneath a kurotomesode, features a striking use of shibori-dyed patterning. Broad diagonal bands alternate across the garment, filled with contrasting textures and motifs: looping circular forms created by stitched-resist techniques, alongside denser, stippled shibori textures. The muted palette of olive, taupe, cream, and black creates a restrained yet sophisticated surface, emphasizing the interplay between precision and organic irregularity—one of the hallmarks of shibori artistry.

The bold diagonal layout echoes Art Deco design principles that were gaining popularity in Japan during the Taishō period, where rhythmic geometry and repeated motifs reflected a fascination with modernity and abstraction. At the same time, the organic, hand-crafted qualities of the shibori work preserve the textile’s connection to traditional Japanese dyeing practices, underscoring the cultural value of artisanal irregularity (hakanasa and wabi sensibilities) even within modern design frameworks.

Worn beneath a formal kurotomesode, the garment would have remained mostly hidden, serving as a layer of luxury and refinement closest to the body. Its use of technically complex shibori patterning reflects both status and taste, while the diagonal motif—suggesting movement, energy, and continuity—would have infused the wearer’s ensemble with subtle dynamism, even in the highly codified context of formal dress.

Measuring 47 inches (119 cm) from sleeve-end to sleeve-end and standing at a height of 60 inches (152 cm).

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