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This textile is a masterful example of katazome (stencil dyeing) applied to a rustic, hand-spun asa (hemp or ramie) fabric, perfectly capturing the ingenuity of late Edo-period craftsmanship. The choice of "loosely woven" bast fiber is characteristic of high-quality summer wear from this era, designed to be breathable and crisp against the skin. The artist utilized a resist-dye technique to create a striking monochrome design, where the deep indigo or black ground contrasts sharply with the natural color of the unbleached fiber. The sheer, net-like structure of the weave is visible in the lighter areas, adding a physical texture that interacts dynamically with the visual rhythm of the print.
The dominant motif features a bold, stylized variation of the chrysanthemum (kiku), rendered here as a "twisted" or "whirlwind" chrysanthemum (nejiri-kiku). While the chrysanthemum is traditionally associated with autumn and the Imperial family, its use in this summer garment is likely intended to evoke a sense of "coolness" (ryō). The spiraling, radial geometry mimics the motion of a water wheel or a spinning wind, serving to visually combat the oppressive heat of the Japanese summer. The petals are abstracted into pure geometric arcs, stripping away the flower’s natural fragility to emphasize energy and motion instead of delicate beauty.
Aesthetically, this design encapsulates the Edo Iki (chic) sensibility of the mid-19th century, which valued boldness, simplicity, and a rejection of the overly ornate designs favored by the aristocracy. Although it predates the movement by a century, the design strongly evokes modern Op Art (Optical Art); the oscillating concentric lines create a vibrating optical illusion that dazzles the eye. This graphic sophistication suggests the influence of ukiyo-e woodblock prints, particularly in the daring composition that crops the large flowers at the edges of the sleeves, proving that Edo-period artisans were already utilizing principles of modern graphic design long before they were defined in the West.
Measuring 48 inches from sleeve-end to sleeve-end and 52 inches in height (122 cm x 132 cm), this kimono stands out for its distinctive aesthetics, unlike any others we've encountered.