This boy's silk miyamairi kimono showcases the legendary figure of Kikujido, the Chrysanthemum Boy, rendered through a sophisticated combination of yuzen dyeing, freehand painting, sagara embroidery, and metallic thread work. The garment displays the characteristic T-shaped silhouette of traditional Japanese formal wear, with its most striking feature being the elaborate pictorial narrative that spans across the sleeves and body of the kimono.

The artistic composition centers on the figure of Kikujido, depicted as a young man in flowing robes positioned among stylized clouds and chrysanthemum motifs. The color palette is predominantly monochromatic, utilizing subtle gradations of black, gray, and cream tones that create a dreamlike, ethereal quality reminiscent of classical Japanese ink wash paintings. The chrysanthemums, which are central to the Kikujido legend, are rendered with remarkable detail - some appearing as full blooms while others are suggested through more abstract, flowing forms that seem to dance across the textile surface.

The technical execution demonstrates the height of Meiji period textile artistry, where traditional Japanese craftsmanship intersected with new influences and techniques. The yuzen dyeing technique allows for the subtle color gradations and fine pictorial details, while the sagara embroidery adds dimensional texture to key elements. The overall aesthetic evokes the refined sensibilities of the Rinpa school of Japanese decorative arts, with its emphasis on natural motifs, asymmetrical composition, and the integration of pictorial and decorative elements. The flowing, organic forms and the way the design wraps around the garment's structure also suggest influences from Art Nouveau, which was gaining international prominence during this period and finding expression in Japanese decorative arts of the early 20th century.

This  miyamairi is relatively large and comprises three inner kimonos, totaling four garments altogether, making it quite heavy when worn together. Its measurements are 35 inches (88.9 cm) from sleeve-end to sleeve-end and 45 inches (114.3 cm) in height.

The legend of Kikujido dates back to the rule of the Chinese emperor Mu in the Zhou dynasty (c. 950 B.C.). Kikujido, also known as Chrysanthemum-boy in the Japanese adaptation, was a young attendant highly favored by the emperor for his dedicated service. However, jealousy from the emperor's consort and other attendants led to Kikujido's banishment after an inadvertent misstep. Despite this harsh treatment, the emperor, feeling remorseful, imparted sacred words given by the Buddha to Kikujido. Banished to a valley flourishing with chrysanthemums, Kikujido spent his time communing with nature, inscribing the sacred words on chrysanthemum leaves and setting them afloat in the stream. These leaves, borne from his devotion and purity, became symbols of peace for those who discovered them downstream.

This artwork is featured on pages 276-279 of Ceremonial Textiles of Japan, 18th to 20th Centuries. This book, published by Yorke Antique Textiles, can be previewed or purchased on our website here.

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