This remarkably elegant silk woman's robe showcases traditional auspicious motifs like pine trees, plum trees, flying cranes, and minogame turtles, all symbolizing longevity and happiness. The fabric base features a complex damask or brocade weave, demonstrated in detail images, with 'bokashi' gradual shade dying complemented by brush strokes—both dry and not-so-dry—as well as embroideries. The inner lining consists of beni red sha silk, with a light padding between it and the outer patterned layer, lending a subtle overall stiffness to the garment. It stands at 50 inches (127 cm) from sleeve-end to sleeve-end and is 59 inches (150 cm) in height, in near mint condition, except for a discreet 2cm silk split within the patterned area.

Historically, the uchikake was a formal kimono worn by women of warrior or noble families until the end of the Edo period. Most robes during the late Edo period were patterned throughout, while this example represents a rarer style patterned only below the waist. Its exceptional condition and refinement mark it as the best of this rare style encountered in years of observing, collecting, and dealing with Japanese garments.

The nature scenes depicted in the pattern-work employ free-hand painting, yuzen-work, gold-thread couching, and simple embroidery, displaying an extraordinarily refined artwork—arguably the most sophisticated and intricate in Japanese garment artistry encountered to date. This robe features five formal family crests, indicating a high social standing for the wearer. Notably, these crests are rare, not listed in publications containing over 2,000 different crests. They comprise a folded fan ('ogi' or 'sensu') motif in the outer circumference and a central square 'mesh' ('meyui').

The ancient pattern used on this garment, termed 'eye tie,' refers to an expensive dyeing process where material is puckered and tied before coloring to achieve a dappled effect. Remarkably light—weighing less than 500 grams—the robe boasts extremely fine inner and outer silk layers. Unlike more visually striking examples, this subtle uchikake doesn't immediately draw attention but gradually reveals its brilliance and subtlety over time.

While in near-perfect condition, this uchikake is not meant for wear due to the delicate nature of the silk. Instead, it serves as a work of art to be displayed flawlessly.

This artwork is featured on pages 364-367 of Ceremonial Textiles of Japan, 18th to 20th Centuries. This book, published by Yorke Antique Textiles, can be previewed or purchased on our website here.

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