The Uchikake: From Heian Court Robe to Showa Bridal Splendor

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An uchikake is not tied with an obi around it; instead, it is worn open, almost like a coat or cloak, and it is meant to trail along the floor. The specialized kimono worn under the uchikake is referred to as "aigi". The uchikake is characterized by its rich decoration and often padded hem, which adds to its luxurious and ceremonial appearance. The uchikake's origins can be traced back to the Heian period (794-1185) in Japan. During this era, it was a formal outer robe worn by noblewomen and women of the imperial court. As Japan entered the Kamakura (1185-1333) and Muromachi (1336-1573) periods, the uchikake became associated with the samurai and warrior elite. Women from samurai and noble families wore uchikake on special occasions and formal events. In the Edo period and subsequent Meiji period, uchikake began to take on its role as part of Japanese bridal attire for the affluent. To a lesser degree, uchikake were occasionally worn at tea ceremonies and donned by performers during stage performances.

The Wedding Ceremony
‍ During the Late Meiji to Early Showa Periods: The selection of furisode and uchikake was a meticulous process, involving careful consideration of patterns, colors, and styles that harmonized with the overall wedding theme. During the wedding ceremony, the bride typically started with the kurofurisode, symbolizing her unmarried status, before changing into the uchikake later in the proceedings. This change in attire represents the bride's transformation into a married woman and her assumption of new responsibilities. Sometimes, brides may have chosen to wear only a kurofurisode without an additional uchikake, while in others, especially among the more affluent and traditionalist families, the uchikake was considered an essential part of the bridal ensemble.

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